The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is opaque purple in color. The nose delivers a splendid array of pain grille smoke pencil lead espresso and black currants. It makes a youthful entry on the palate with layers of black fruits mouth-filling flavors a plush texture with plenty of ripe tannins to hold this big wine together. The finish is long and pure. The wine demands 8-10 years to show to full advantage and should drink well through 2032. Importer: Banfi Vintners Oldbrookville NY; tel. (516) 686-2502

Shows alluring coffee bean currant paste and fig aromas and flavors with ample loamy tannins and a ripe muscular finish where cocoa and tar notes hang on for added effect. Accessible now but will improve with cellaring. Drink now through 2013. 17000 cases made. –JM

From El Tocornal, on the north bank of the Maipo river, this latest release of Don Melchor is still too young to completely reveal its character. Menthol and black cherry aromas dominate the wine. The palate, severe and tight, speaks of strength and musculature rather than Melchor's usual gentleness. Decant it now for game, or save a bottle for the next five to six years.

In recent years, with winemaker Enrique Tirado firmly at the helm, Don Melchor has gotten better and better. And while 2004 was an average year in Chile, this ranks as the best Melchor we’ve sampled. The wine has beautiful blackberry, cola and pepper aromas in front of cassis, cherry, plum, nutmeg and cinnamon flavors. It’s brawny but balanced, with excellent natural acidity. Best from 2008–2012.