97+ The 2004 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a monument in the making, unwinding in the glass with a youthful bouquet of lemon oil, fresh apple, vanilla pod, struck match and a light touch of smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, searingly intense and racy, built around a bright line of acidity and laden with chewy extract, still rock solid at the core, concluding with a long, chalky finish that captures the essence of Corton-Charlemagne. Impressively, this is still a few years away from truly entering its plateau. - William Kelley