This deep-garnet-colored wine has aromas of blackberry, black currant and olive tapenade. It is soft at first sip, and then rugged tannins build on the palate, ferrying flavors of dark plum, pomegranate, cocoa powder, thyme and orange zest that wend their way to a surprisingly bright finish. Drink through 2035. Mike DeSimone

An extremely well-aged and understated Rioja, showing discreet complexity with plums, oranges, leather, dusty red berries and minerals. Juicy and bright on the palate with a zesty nature to the berry and orange citrus. Silky, taut tannins and a long yet elegant finish. Lots of finesse here, with almost pinot etherealness. Tempranillo, graciano and mazuelo from selected plots. 36 months aging, with American oak in use, too. Drinkable now, but can hold for another 10 years.