The first vintage that seems approachable now, this pumps out a very friendly core of steeped red currant, blackberry cherry and plum fruit, with exuberant acidity, mouthwatering cocoa and pain d'épices notes followed by a long, incense- and black tea-infused finish. Has the stuffing and balance to age further, but thoroughly delicious now.—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2030. 3,000 cases made. –JM

Tasted from Yapp’s reserves at a private vertical. This has a clear garnet core. The nose is very well defined with notes of blackberry, sous-bois, a touch of black pepper and smoke. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious, slightly grainy texture, complex, especially towards the finish with blackberry, tar, chestnut and a touch of bacon fact – but it is all restrained and understated. So fresh and wonderfully balanced. The bottom line is that this is a gorgeous, svelte, sensuous Hermitage destined to age with distinction. Drink 2013-2025.

The 2004 red Hermitage which was given a much longer time in barrel and small foudre than normal because the Chaves determined the tannins and the acids needed a longer time to integrate is a beauty. The wine exhibits a dense ruby/purple color a big sweet nose of creme de cassis black cherry licorice pepper and a hint of olive paste. It is a full-bodied wine that tastes atypical for this vintage with its beautifully integrated acidity and sweet tannin. The wine is structured more masculine and backward than the over-the-top full-throttle 2003.

A top-notch effort from a difficult vintage, Chave’s 2004 red Hermitage is a complete wine: complex and balanced. Spice, meat and red fruit aromas and flavors swirl together in a mix of power and elegance. Acids are a touch crisp, but that’s the vintage speaking. Drink 2010–2025.