Thoroughly primal with a torrent of raspberry and boysenberry fruit rushing forth this only shows hints of its full range with licorice incense graphite and mocha flavors fluttering in the background. It's also got ironclad structure and a long finish that shows great cut and grip. Shows none of the severe tannins of the 2003. Best from 2009 through 2025. 14165 cases made. -J.M.

Showing brilliantly, with a deep, rich and layered profile, the straight 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape has gorgeous black cherry, earth, underbrush and background meatiness that gives way to a full-bodied, concentrated and pure feel on the palate. A foudre-aged blend of 30% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault, with the balance a mix of the other permitted varieties, this knockout Chateauneuf du Pape will have another 10-15 years of prime drinking. - Jeb Dunnuck

This takes hours in the glass to reveal its potential. Then its silken texture begins to let up aromas of cedar and spice and the flavors deepen, becoming meatier even while brighter notes of red cherry begin to shine. Those flavors last, strong and long, feeling complete. Put it away for another five to 15 years.