The 2004 Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port comes in with 94 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is currently being rereleased and it is a fine bargain. Wide open and expressive (at least with double decanting the night...
The 2004 Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port comes in with 94 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is currently being rereleased and it is a fine bargain. Wide open and expressive (at least with double decanting the night before), this is laced with a touch of bitter chocolate and underlying steel. It shows finesse and elegance, too, while the tannins calm down fairly well, at least after the decanting that it had. Winemaker David Guimaraens said to me that this 2004 was, for him, a "typical Vargellas...the single quinta star of the decade." It is not a superstar, but it is lovely, starting with its fine flavor and ending with its crisp edge. Showing some mature nuances, it has developed some complexity and has passed from the primary stages. It easily has the wherewithal to continue developing in the cellar. It isn't the most concentrated Porto, perhaps, but it is notable for its precision, freshness and the delicious, long and juicy finish. It should continue to age nicely for a few decades. It is approachable now (with some decanting), but not quite at its peak. - Mark Squires