The 2005 #3 Traminer Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague is strongly oriented along the animal – more precisely, marine-porcine – axis of this notorious family of grapes. Ham hock, candied rose petal and violets, celery seed, and ocean breeze rise from the glass. This coats the mouth with an oily residue of pork fat, along with rose oil, lychee, pineapple, and white pepper. There is a cut and brightness to the finish that belie the grape variety, the new wood, and this wine’s mere 7 grams of acidity. Cinnamon, white pepper, and bacon hog the finish from the fruits and flowers. This should be worth following for at least 15-20 years. - David Schildknecht

This wine's taut acidity reins in the plush flavors of papaya, pineapple, lemon curd and grapefruit pith. Unctuous and rich, backed by subtle spiciness, this builds on the palate in graceful, unhurried refinement and intensity, never losing its sense of focus.