The 2005 is an impressively fresh Champagne that has an array of grilled nuts, nougat and chalky minerals ahead of red apple, lemon and grapefruit pith, red fruits and attractive red floral perfume. The palate's supple, smoothly cut, and has a wealth of concentrated dark and red berry fruit flavor that really speaks of pinot noir. This has warmth and richness; really bold and smooth with some spice to close too. The palate has a lot of power, weight and length. Will evolve to deliver brulée, toffee and mocha. Drink now or hold for five years.

A powerful, structured and graceful 2005, showing deft integration of the rich, chalky underpinning, firm acidity and expansive flavors of crushed black currant, spring blossom, toasted almond, crystallized honey and preserved lemon. Offers a fine, raw silk—like mousse and a long, spiced finish. Disgorged February 2015. Drink now through 2030. 2,250 cases imported. –AN

An elegant and admirably pure nose of citrus, brioche, white orchard fruit and floral scents is less marked by the ripeness of the vintage than many 2005s today though the large format bottling undoubtedly helps. There is fine richness to the medium weight flavors that are beautifully vibrant thanks to the firm but fine mousse supporting the dry but not austere finale that exhibits excellent complexity. In general I find the 2005s to be somewhat hit and miss but this is a beauty. I would add that 750 ml examples are probably close to their peak whereas this example in magnum was still clearly on the way up.

Bollinger's 2005 La Grande Année is a classical but comparatively precocious rendition of this cuvée that's already drinking well, offering up aromas of honeyed yellow apples, dried white flowers, English walnuts, praline and tea leaves. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a fine mousse, ripe acids and a dry, richly saline finish. It was disgorged with six grams per liter dosage after more than nine years sur lattes. While this isn't a historic vintage for Bollinger—or for Champagne as a whole—it's a persuasive Grande Année that exemplifies the house style. - William Kelley