Plush, with velvety tannins that carry raspberry ganache, red licorice, molten chocolate and mulled spice notes. Nice hints of sandalwood, black tea and graphite fill out the finish, which just sails on. The velvety quality makes this accessible now, but try to wait. Drink now through 2030. 1,000 cases made.–JM

The 2005 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes boasts a big, perfumed nose of cherry, minerals, floral and pepper notes. Simply stunning. Medium to full bodied with rich fruit, a mouth filling lush texture, plenty of structure and a long finish.

Another beautiful wine is the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. Slightly more restrained and focused than the Hautes Brusquières, with present tannic grip, it nevertheless has beautiful purity and focus in its dark fruits (black currants, black cherries), chocolate and crushed rock aromas and flavors. Still youthful and lively, it’s drinking nicely today and will cruise for another decade.- JD