A block of dense, dark fruit and ironclad tannins seem impenetrable at first, yet this develops on the palate, with the cherry, black currant, wild berry, mocha and mineral notes becoming more defined and the texture more lacy. This has energy and length. Shows great potential. Best from 2015 through 2038. 5 cases imported. –BS

Interestingly, last year at this time the simply fantastic VV more resembled the Cham than the straight cuvée of the Bèze but it has now changed back , revealing its spicy black fruit and earth nose only grudgingly with similar textured, indeed almost chewy flavors that carry huge concentration and a muscled but wonderfully precise and layered finish that just goes on and on. As good as both the Cham and regular Bèze are, this has another dimension but I caution readers to be aware that this too is built for the very long haul and will probably require two decades to see its full, and considerable, potential. A monumental effort and worth a special search. Bravo!