One of several super-S.G.N.s of its vintage that Zind Humbrecht did not bottle until 2008 and released late that year, the 2005 Pinot Gris Rotenberg Selection de Grains Nobles – vinified in a new demi-muid that...
One of several super-S.G.N.s of its vintage that Zind Humbrecht did not bottle until 2008 and released late that year, the 2005 Pinot Gris Rotenberg Selection de Grains Nobles – vinified in a new demi-muid that subsequently held their 2006 Goldert S.G.N. – has reveled its personality so much more clearly since I reviewed if from cask in issue 175, that I could not resist taking another crack at it, even though my numerical rating will come as no surprise to readers of that earlier report. Offering an amazing combination of near-gelatinous viscosity with near-weightless buoyancy – and with an Eszcencia-like ethereal aspect (albeit at 8.5% alcohol) and standoff between acids and residual sugar – this features scents and flavors of purple plum and apricot preserves; pineapple and mandarin; brown spices; leather, black tea, and peat; smoked meat; and butter cream. The layers of flavor here oscillate and overlap with mesmerizing complexity, leading to a dizzying and uplifting finish. This will no doubt be a 30-40 year wine. - David Schildknecht