Floral aromatics give way to bright spiced red fruits, menthol and licorice as the 2005 Barbaresco opens in the glass. This is a firm, classically built wine of notable elegance. The tannins are substantial yet beautifully woven into the wine’s mid-weight frame. This is another beautiful Barbaresco from Angelo Gaja, but it will require patience as it is tightly wound today. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.

A very refined nose of wild strawberry, bilberry, red cherry and a touch of orange extract. Well defined although a little muted at first. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins but nice grip. A touch of blackberry and black truffle, leading towards more smoke and tarry elements in the latter half. This is a supremely focused Barbaresco with an almost austere earthy finish. Superb. Drink 2010-2020.

You pay, dearly, for quality, but rest assured you get it with Gaja. What sets this Barbaresco apart is the quality of its mouthfeel, which is lush, soft and penetrating without being one-dimensional or too obvious. The wine offers intrigue and complexity with seamless integration of fruit, mineral and toast. Drink after 2015.