Shows the great embedded structure of the vintage, with a strong graphite undertow pushing the layers of blackberry, boysenberry and plum fruit, while additional sweet spice, mocha and bittersweet cocoa notes fill in the background. Packed with fruit and terroir, with a gorgeous mouthfeel. Best from 2008 through 2027. –JM

94+ A solid showing and certainly a more restrained, structured vintage for this cuvee, the 2005 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul shows a deep black color to go with earthy black fruits, licorice, minerals, charred herbs, and leather notes on the nose. Very dense and tight, this slowly opens with air, but still shows mostly promise at this stage. Medium to full bodied on the palate, with a smooth, seamless texture, good acidity, and a tight, structured core, this should most likely be given another 4-6 years in the cellar, at which point it should drink well for a decade after that.

Showing the firm, slightly masculine (even austere) edge of the vintage, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul offers terrific richness in its black fruits, asphalt, roasted herbs, tar and licorice. Big, full-bodied, structured and tannic, drink it anytime over the coming decade or so. - Jeb Dunnuck