(WA94-95 points)Of all the Chevillon wines, their 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains – like their Cailles and Les St.-Georges, from roughly 80-year-old vines – displays the greatest density, stoniest minerality, most piquant nuttiness, and deepest, darkest, blackberry and beet root “fruit” character. The overall impression is breath-taking in its sheer concentration, yet rather somber and brooding in personality, with an emphasis on piquancy, bitterness and stoniness. Toasted walnut and hickory, cherry pits, black chocolate, stones, and charred meat inform this wine’s powerful, penetrating finish. Were it not for a persistent primary blackberry juiciness and the great refinement of its abundant tannins, this would border on the hyper-concentrated. - David Schildknecht

(BH91-94 points) This is particularly ripe yet the nose is fresh and expressive with its dark raspberry fruit, earth, violet and slightly sauvage notes but the big, robust and amply muscled flavors are brooding to the point of being intensely primary and borderline backward. This is the most structured wine of the range but there is so much extract that the tannins are almost completely buffered, which will permit a long if slow evolution. This is a dramatic effort that isn't quite as classy as the Les St. Georges or Les Cailles but it is likely to be the last wine standing as it were some decades hence.