The Domaine Dujac 2005 Morey-St.-Denis - incorporating the Les Porroux vineyard around the winery - soars from the glass with odors of incense bitter-sweet black cherry musky florality a Chartreuse-like aura of herbal distillates and wood smoke pungency. In the mouth the black cherry and cassis fruit runs really deep persistently wreathed in herbs and flowers with satisfying hints of fruit skin bitterness and bitter chocolate and herb low tones. Already the texture is silken. The finish - while not overly candified in character - reminds me of sucking on fruit and herbal lozenges whose bittersweet residues cling tenaciously to the palate. How much better quality can one ask of a village wine?

A more deeply pitched nose of dark berry fruit earth and a hint of game trimmed in a discreet touch of wood spice merges into rich full and generous medium weight flavors that are robust and display a hint of rusticity on the complex and impressively long finish. This possesses fine material and the structure to improve for up to a decade and the length knocks on the door of grand cru caliber. Recommended.