Moderate reduction makes the nose difficult to evaluate but the moderately rustic and full-bodied flavors are frank rich and direct underpinned by rugged if not aggressive tannins on the supple but admirably dense finish. This is complex and the material is impressive enough though like the Valozières this won't win any prizes for elegance.

Potel's 2005 Volnay Vieilles Vignes â_" representing an inordinately large lot for him and assembled from seven different parcels some premier cru â_" offers aromas and flavors of lightly cooked cherry and blackcurrant tinged with vanilla licorice and black chocolate. Quite full and imposingly ripe it just lacks a bit for sap and juiciness offering a relatively foursquare finish. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons New York NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.