The most balanced of Sea Smoke’s three new Pinots, Southing was aged in about two-thirds new oak, which gives rich caramel, toasted coconut and exotic spice notes to the ripe fruit flavors. The wine explodes with cherries, raspberries, mulberries and even chocolate mint, finishing long and spicy, and leaving the impression of wholesomeness and completeness. Now showing its peak of youthful vivacity, this should develop for an additional six years.

Reminds of fine Chambolle Musigny. Violets, berry/cherry fruit, smoky oak, racy acidity, round, silky tannins. 14.7% alcohol, yet no perceptible heat. If only more California Pinot Noirs were so immediately rewarding, yet elegant and ageworthy. 18/20 (LM)

Spicy, peppery wild berry aromas carry over to the palate, with firm tannins. Tight and compact, this is an austere style that's rich and full-bodied, with enough depth and complexity to merit short-term cellaring. Drink now through 2012. – JL