The most generous and demonstrative of Defaix's premiers crus in this vintage, the 2006 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon offers up a lovely nose of clear honey, Meyer lemon, beeswax, oyster liquor and verbena. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's deep and concentrated, with tangy acids, chalky structure and a long, saline finish. This is another vintage-defying wine from this fine producer.- WK