Grivot's 2006 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots is enticingly scented with ripe blackberry and black raspberry, black tea, peat, black truffles, and iris. While that's literally a dark litany, and while the aforementioned elements flood onto this Pinot's sumptuous and texturally silken palate, the effect is metaphorically anything but dark, possessing not only refreshment to accompany its sense of sweetness and richness, but also an uncanny sense of lift and dynamic. This should be a joy to follow over the next decade or more. - David Schildknecht