Conteisa is a Barolo-inspired wine from Angelo Gaja (with 8% Barbera) that opens with very attractive and approachable aromas of red fruit, tobacco, leather, moist earth and black licorice. There's a youthful element to the personality (that hints at a long aging future ahead) backed by silky, but firm tannins and beautifully crisp acidity. The wine will be at its best after 2018.

Rich and supple, with a dusting of refined tannins providing the framework for plum, black cherry, chocolate and sweet spice aromas and flavors. Drinkable now, yet should improve over the next decade. Best from 2012 through 2030. – BS