This is a full-bodied and ripe wine, showing some toastiness as well as concentrated apple and peach flavors. There is a crisp edge to this opulent and rich wine. It has a great future: it is drinkable now, but will continue well into the 2020s.

There’s a strong, savory edge here with mellow, grilled cashews, as well as honey and white-nougat aromas. The palate has quite a rich and densely fruited feel with cashew, savory notes at the finish and a very savory feel overall. Drink now.

Rich and yet not at all lavish and, in fact, a touch tighter in its basic construction, this slow-to-show effort gradually reveals a keen bit of autolysis neatly matched to its vital, if comparatively subdued fruit. Its tiny bubbles are many and wonderfully well- sustained, and it ends with a terrifically long finish, and, every step of its way, it suggests a little more depth than most and has the potential to gain in both richness and range for a good many more years.

There’s some youthful reduction to this Champagne, hinting at flint and spring leeks. Tight and earthy rather than sunny, it has layers of flavor that build out of that flinty tension, yielding scents of cranberry and ripe red fruit. A lean vintage of this prestige cuvée, it needs a year or two of bottle age to evolve more fully.