Firm and lightly smoky, with a lively bead and finely meshed flavors of yellow plum, star fruit, biscuit and golden raisin. Balanced, with a chalky finish that's more subtle today, but this elegant version should evolve and expand in the glass or cellar. Disgorged April 2014. Drink now through 2024. – AN

Somehow, I managed to miss the date of disgorgement of the 2006 Grande Blanc, but at least I did not miss its quality during our tasting at the maison in late March! The wine is a bit more open on both the nose and palate than its 2005 counterpart and offers up lovely drinking right out of the blocks, wafting from the glass in a mélange of brioche, pear, tangerine, a nice touch of nuttiness, citrus peel and a fine base of chalky minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and snappy, with a fairly powerful personality, fine mid-palate concentration, elegant mousse and very good length and grip on the strong finish. A very good bottle that will drink well right out of the gates. 2014-2030.

Fresh apple and turnip sprinkled with green herbs and toasted almond inform the nose and silken palate of Philipponnat's understated 2006 Brut Grand Blanc, a pure Chardonnay that isn't labeled "Blanc de Blancs." This is lovely as far as it goes - including textural polish and admirable persistence - but rather simple, at least for now. I wouldn-t hesitate to follow it for a couple of years, though. - David Schildknecht