The 2006 Harlequin is one of the most exciting, viscerally thrilling wines I have tasted in a while. Sweet aromas of roasted espresso beans lead to wild cherries, mint, licorice, blackberry jam and star anise as this opulent, full-throttle wine shows off its inimitable class and pedigree. Today the oak remains a touch intrusive, particularly in the tannins, but there appears to be more than enough density in the fruit to provide balance. The finish is eternal. This is a profound effort from Celestino Gaspari and his team. Harlequin is made from as many as fifteen different varieties. The grapes go through a brief drying process prior to being vinified. The wine is then racked into French oak, where it spends two full years with no subsequent rackings. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.- AG