Less aromatic this white exhibits apricot pineapple and lime notes with an undercurrent of stone. Racy and sleek with a compact feel now but let this stretch out as it develops. Best from 2012 through 2025. 170 cases made. -BS

With its aromas of pink grapefruit mango and banana I though for a moment that Kesselstatt's 2006 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese was another Goldtropfchen Riesling. Juicy in fruit and pure in its tropical (over-)ripeness and honeyed suggestion of botrytis this displays real elegance and delicacy as well as admirable clarity in its long finish. One can sense the profound potential of the site beneath this effusive fruit as it finishes with outstanding depth of fruit and nutty slaty undertones. The wine is quite sweet for now but one could hold it for 20-25 years at least and were it not for the residual sugar I wonder whether we-d have enjoyed the elegance and lightness of touch that go hand in hand with lower alcohol. -David Schildknecht