The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino from Poggio Il Castellare is a dark inward wine imbued with dark cherries plums tar smoke licorice and new leather all of which come together on a powerful incisive frame. This burly somewhat rough around the edges Brunello shows plenty of length and richness even if the tannins might benefit from a measure of added polish. Still I see this working well with boldly flavored dishes. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

A beauty with terrific integration of its floral cherry plum and tart notes all backed by a steely structure. The elements are there and the tannins will be absorbed in time. Long spicy finish. Best from 2013 through 2026.-B.S.