The 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato wraps around the palate with layers of mocha, espresso, Morello cherries, spices, mint and new leather. It is a wonderfully plush, expressive wine loaded with aromatic and flavor complexity. There is plenty of inner perfume and sweetness, but what impresses most is the wine’s sense of structure and length. Darker notes flesh out on the finish adding a baritone register to the fruit that is highly appealing. This is a fabulous showing from Zenato. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.- AG

This is a real beauty, with huge intensity and loads of deep chocolate fudge, black cherry, cola, barbecue and black licorice flavors. It manages contrasting tones of sweet versus savory that pleasure the tastebuds. The palate is rich, smooth and superconcentrated.

This thick, creamy version delivers layered flavors of black cherry and blackberry pâte de fruit, treacle, date, aromatic ground spice, and accents of graphite and tea leaf. Supple tannins show on the lightly chewy, juicy finish. Drink now through 2026. 1,400 cases made. — AN