With the barrique-fermented Mann 2007 Pinot Gris Furstentum Le Tri – another S.G.N. in all but name – one has to ask whether we aren’t in the realm of sheer experiment, and I think the Barthelmes children will have to judge the results. With a mere 7% alcohol and 320 grams of residual sugar – but also with nobly sweet Riesling-like acidity – this is in effect an Esszencia. Peach preserves, kirsch, maraschino, and sheer essence of honeyed botrytis secretion mingle in a creamy, almost gelatinous medium. Faintly sweaty, musky, and animal overtones emerge as this takes on air, a reminder that we are dealing with Pinot Gris and not Riesling. Amazingly, it displays more delineation and no more sweetness than did the corresponding Altenbourg. What’s more, the new wood is undetectable. This is remarkable nectar by any standards, though it seems almost as if standards of wine should not apply – or at least not for a long, long time. - David Schildknecht