Cellar Selection. This Ferreirinha Douro Superior wine is made in exceptional years. The 2007 is the 16th vintage since 1960 (the previous release was 2003). It is an immense wine in its grandeur while being sophisticated and structured. There are complex flavors from the long wood aging. The dark, dense black fruits are impressive while perfectly meshed into the concentrated tannins and black currant acidity. This wine, even at nine years, is young, and should not be drunk before 2020 (or decanted if you can't wait).

An unusually rainy winter in the Douro meant that the vines had excellent water reserves to draw on in the hot summer that followed. Picking began at the beginning of September at perfect ripeness. This was also the first Reserva Especial where Luis Sottomayor had complete control as head winemaker. The wine represents a new and modern incarnation of Reserva Especial, compared to the wines of the 1980s and 1990s. Sixteen years on, the deep, intense colour shows little or no concession to age. The primary fruit is rich and generous displaying mulberry, bramble, cherry, chocolate and coffee grind. Beautifully balanced and calibrated this has freshness and finesse allied to power, ripe texture and considerable length.

96+ The 2007 Reserva Especial, a blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 30% Touriga Nacional and 30% Tinta Roriz aged for 18 months in new French oak, was seen recently. Honestly, I have very little else to add to that note. This is being published only because it was poured next to the 2007 Leda, also reviewed. The comparison between the levels--this being so much more expensive--is worth noting. What do you get for the upgrade in price? Well, this is bigger everywhere. As much as I loved the Leda, this adds a layer or two of depth and considerably more power. At the moment, there is nothing to choose between them, though. The Leda holds its own by being far more expressive and far more elegant. Those who appreciate a more understated and more graceful demeanor may prefer it overall. However, this Reserva Especial (c'mon, this should have been declared as Barca Velha) will win in the long run. It is evolving at a snail's pace, to be sure. It seems likely to exceed my current end-date drinking window, let alone the original one, but let's remain conservative for a while. While this remains rather shut down and sometimes curled into a fetal position, cellar it and drink the Leda. One day they will separate more. I do tend to allow the wines to grow into their potential and give clearer signals as to what they are. This Reserva is not expressive yet, but the Leda has a cap while the sky might one day be the limit here. That day is not quite today, although I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. There were 33,000 bottles produced. - Mark Squires