The 2007 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a taut, racy vintage of this great wine, unfurling with extended aeration to reveal aromas of green apples, citrus oil, white flowers, struck match and a subtle top note of petrol. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, chiseled and intense, with a bright line of acidity, a tight-knit core and a searingly stony finish. With less flesh on its bones than the 2008, this vintage shares some of the 2004's qualities, but I suspect the 2007 will always be finer-boned. I'd cellar this for another couple of years, but anyone planning to drink it now should consider decanting. - William Kelley