From the dramatic steep hillside that rises behind the village and opposite the northern terminus of En Charlemagne (but is not rated premier cru) Deux Montille's 2007 Pernand-Vergelesses Le Sous Fretille strikes a saline chicken stock kirsch and quarry dust pose in the nose that would do a Chablis premier cru proud. Suggestions of pungent herbs and caraway lend a slightly Sauvignon-like note. The last thing in my mind is to do this distinctive wine an injustice by comparing it to something else but hopefully these similes suffice to indicate how unusual it is for a Cote d'Or Chardonnay. Bright salt- and stone-saturated yet texturally tender this launches into a finish of tremendous verve staining the palate with herbal mineral and citrus oil residues. A hint of honey points toward a deeply buried incipient richness and I am quite convinced that this will evolve in a Corton-Charlemagne-like manner over the next half dozen or more years.