Thibault Liger-Belair’s 2007 Vosne-Romanee Aux Reas – vinified with one-third stems and whole clusters – brims with ripe but tart plum and blueberry. Resin and mint overtones, beef marrow and caramelized root vegetables are complemented by mouth-watering saline savor and umami richness, rendering this a temptation to which one would gladly succumb now, although its complexity and fine texture suggest following for at least the next 6-8 years. - David Schildknecht