A beautiful, maturing vin santo with a wonderful, creamy quality running right through the palate. The dried-mango and candied-orange character that it shows right now matches the moderate sweetness. A clean finish. Drink now.

(94+ points) The 2007 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (375-milliliters) is a gorgeous wine with so many descriptors that apply to the ever-evolving and complex bouquet. This golden dessert wine offers distinct aromas of dried apricot, honey and saffron. But give it a few moments and earthy or autumnal tones of wild mushroom, forest floor and aged cheese also rise to the top. The effect is almost savory and definitely very sophisticated. The wine glides smoothly over the palate with creamy richness and viscous smoothness.- ML

A lithe, well-defined Vin Santo, verging on racy in profile. Concentrated flavors of caramel, apricot, orange peel and clove are corralled by the vibrant acidity. Long, going on and on. Trebbiano, Malvasia and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2028. — BS