This is an archetypal Prüm Auslese, from its aristocratic poise and silky finesse to its vibrant energy and crystalline complexity. Its sleek fuselage of fruit feels succulent without needing to be overly rich, and its subtle, mineral-drenched flavors unfold in kaleidoscopic detail on the long and fragrant finish. At the same time, its youthfulness is almost painfully evident, a reminder that drinking this wine in optimum maturity is a pleasure that won't be experienced for at least another two or three decades.

Quince preserves baked apple lily gardenia and hints of caramel and vanilla mark the nose of the Prum 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese. With richness yet delicacy and lift it saturates the palate with rich fruit liquid flowers vanilla cream and savory saline shrimp shell reduction-like mineral essences. This intense pure subtly and truly nobly botrytized Auslese has umami with a capital "U." - David Schildknecht

Prüm's 2007 Sonnenuhr auslese shows a typical youthful yeasty-leesy-sulfur funk but also layers of ripe pear and citrus fruit lurking underneath. It's sweet but wonderfully balanced plump and creamy in texture and long on the finish.- J.C.