Although I have tasted the 2007 Vin de Constance on several occasions, this was the first time professionally. It has an explosive bouquet that sprints out of the blocks with a more effervescent, vivacious personality than the 2008. Citrus lemon, Seville orange marmalade, touches of mandarin and a dash of spice all vie for attention. The aromatics are more Sauternes-like than the 2008. The palate is very well-balanced with a viscous opening, a keen thread of acidity and a bewitching sense of poise and focus. This is probably the finest Vin de Constance to date as it fans out marvellously on the multi-layered finish. This is a startling, world-class wine that gives Yquem a run for its money. -Neal Martin

A well-balanced, powerful dessert wine, this opens with an intense bouquet of fresh peach, orange blossom, jasmine, gardenia and honeysuckle. The mouthfilling, sweet palate is loaded with flavors of ripe stone fruit, mango, melon and orange marmelade, but is kept bright by refreshing acidity on the close. Secondary notes of ginger and white tea linger long on the evolving finish. A wine of class and strength, this is delicious now, but should also easily age through 2020.

Gorgeous, featuring a core of creamed peach, persimmon, maple and nectarine notes inlaid with flashes of green tea, dried papaya and mango. Lush and refined, with accents of blood orange and mouthwatering spice echoing on the finish. Muscat de Frontignan. Drink now through 2020. – JM

Napoleon Bonaparte purportedly guzzled 30 bottles of Vin de Constance a month. If those vintages were anything like this 2007, it's easy to see why. Made from muscat de Frontignan planted at the original 1650s site, the grapes left to raisin on the vine, this feels ethereal. It's impressively delicate for its succulent texture, maintaining focused freshness in spring-like floral notes, while coating the palate in warmer flavors of apricot, tamarind, candied orange and exotic spice. The finish is bright and seemingly everlasting, mirroring the golden tone that emanates from the glass.