High-toned sour cherry - shadowed by kirsch distillate - and a hint of parsnip in the nose of Gilles Jayer's 2007 Hautes-Cotes de Beaune are joined by meat juices suffused with salt and chalk on a sappy generous palate whose fine tannins are overrun by fruit in a lip-smacking finish. This ought to remain delightful for at least the next 4-6 years i.e. longer than I predict of a great many premier crus of its vintage even some from celebrated vignerons. - David Schildknecht