The 2007 La Tache amply illustrates why this monopole is the darling among most of those lucky enough to regularly taste or collect the wines of the Domaine de La Romanee-Conti. Hints of mocha vanilla maraschino and almond paste lend a confectionary note to generously rich cassis and raspberry while Latakia tobacco peat clove black pepper star anise and cumin contribute commune-typical Vosne-Romanee personality in spades. The high-toned sweet themes continue inner mouth with intimation of heliotrope rowan and lily perfume while the wine's smoky spicy elements seem to descend into a low-register undertone of roasted red meats and forest floor. As this opens to the air a subtly sweet-saline suggestion of lobster shell reduction adds richness and succulence. Strikingly creamy in feel this La Tache nevertheless possessed a fresh berry edge that helps convey vibrancy to a finish that practically glows in your mouth offering another of those Burgundian paradoxes of light and dark. Here de Villaine's case for long-term potential is easily made and I expect this will richly reward at least 15-20 years of attention.

A reserved yet equally kaleidoscopic nose of red blue and violet aromas that is wonderfully broad spicy fresh airy and layered leads to intensely floral mineral infused and focused medium weight plus flavors that possess a strikingly attractive mouth feel and while in the context of the pantheon of great vintages of this storied wine the '07 will be viewed as one of the lighter examples the focus and balance here is nigh on perfect as the finish explodes into a hugely long finale all underpinned by firm tannins and bright acidity. This may seem to be a lighter vintage but it will require at least 15 years of cellar time before this will be sufficiently civilized to drink with real pleasure and probably 25 before it's fully resolved. One other point bears mentioning: it's been a number of vintages since I last saw La Tâche best the Romanée-Conti but 2007 may be one of them.