The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello comes across as cool inward and reticent. In other words very Ovello. It is one of the most complete of these 2007s as the freshness of the site works to counter some of the more extroverted qualities of the year. The Ovello possesses stunning depth in its fruit expressive inner perfume and firm yet refined tannins that provide the backdrop for all of the elements to come together beautifully in the glass. The Ovello seems to combine the best qualities of the Montestefano and Montefico. The huge building finish provides a glimpse as to what awaits those who can exercise a measure of patience. This is a stunning Barbaresco on all counts. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. -A.G.

An austere sinewy style exhibiting strawberry tea white pepper eucalyptus and iron flavors. It's all underscored by dense dusty tannins with plenty of grip on the tightly wound finish. Best from 2015 through 2027. 1166 cases made. -BS