Gauby's 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Muntada - from 100 year-old pre-phylloxera Carignan vines and 60-80 year old Grenache plus a bit of Syrah and tasted assembled from barrel - is almost dizzying in its aromatic diversity and strength. Shrubby herbs licorice tar cedar game daffodil and marigold floral notes lead into a palate that improbably combines sheer viscosity and riveting intensity with invigorating brightness of fresh fruit and saline crystalline shimmering minerality. From its deep carnal stony depth through its multitude of herbs and berries to the distillate-like intensity of its floral salt-tinged top notes this profound and exuberant wine is brilliantly scored for full orchestra and resonates long after swallowing. This opus - whose mysterious savage beauty and luminosity brought to mind La Tache - will not be bottled until summer but is sure to go down as one of Gauby's greatest and be worth following for at least the better part of two decades.