Yeasty, fermentative notes to some extent shroud the true aromas of the Prums’ 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese, which with patience reveals high-toned herbal essences, fresh lime, and gardenia. In the mouth this is intensely saline and lime-fruited, making for a refreshing and enervating character one seldom finds at Auslese level, and that offers dynamic counterpoint to the wine’s wafting floral notes and its rich flavors of cherry preserve and honey. As Manfred Prum is the first to point out, this Auslese is more than a little Saar-like. It also finishes straight and penetrating as an arrow, with suggestions of peat, salt, and wet stone adding a fascinating mineral dimension. - David Schildknecht