(WA 92 - 93 points) Exuberantly sweetly-fruited, the Billaud 2008 Chablis Vaudesir is redolent of and brims with purple plum, pineapple, quince and peach, hauntingly wreathed in gentian and violet perfume. Liquid perfume carries all the way across the glossy, plush palate, while peach kernel bitterness, salinity, and chalkiness add to a complex, interactive finish. Here is one of those 2008 Chablis that put me in mind of Riesling in its primary fruit intensity, perfume, and dynamic. Fusil, bittersweetly herbal, and downright stony notes are seamlessly integrated into and help extend the finish of this beauty, apt to be worth following for at least a decade. - David Schildknecht