A cool, almost perpetually breezy site in a vintage of cool, wind-driven concentration, results in a buoyant, refreshing, penetrating personality. Bouchard’s flagship 2008 Beaune Greves L’Enfant Jesus displays the...
A cool, almost perpetually breezy site in a vintage of cool, wind-driven concentration, results in a buoyant, refreshing, penetrating personality. Bouchard’s flagship 2008 Beaune Greves L’Enfant Jesus displays the aromatic complexity of a tobacconist’s along with a wide assortment of mouthwateringly ripe red berries and bittersweet hints of citrus oil. Sappy and bright yet richly-textured, and palate-staining in its persistent intensity of tobacco and red fruit, citrus oils, soy, and mineral salts, this superbly conveys the vibrancy of which 2008 is so notably capable, while displaying a plush sense of substantiality and ultra-fine tannins that are less common this year. I would plan to follow it for 15 or more years. Prost reports that the selection was especially rigorous this year, with most of the domaine’s Greves fruit being declassified into the Beaune du Chateau cuvee. Bouchard always presents this wine dead last in any line-up, regardless of the grand crus that might immediately precede it. While I usually list wines in the print edition of a report in the order in which they are served, I move the baby Jesus back to join its fellow Beaunes. That said, in this vintage, Bouchard’s point in serving it last is well-taken! - David Schildknecht