Brocard's 2008 Chablis Butteaux - vinified in a mixture of demi-muids and tank - smells strikingly of ocean breeze kelp iodine and distilled pit fruits. Bright yet subtly creamy; dense yet buoyant; it offers the palate a veritable super-saturation of mineral elements finishing with formidable tenacity yet at the same time consummate refreshment. This should grow in complexity and richness with a few years in bottle and be worth following for the better part of a decade if not beyond. -DS