Not yet bottled when I last tasted it in April Brocard's 2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre leads with apple and diverse citrus aromas that anticipate its tart bright palate impression. The cut and energy on display as well as the chalky mineral sense and firm feel conduce to a certain severity but there is such a sense of vivacity and energy as well as an invigorating impingement of fruit skins and pungent spices in the finish as to win one over and leave one looking forward to this wine's evolution over the next half dozen or more years. -David Schildknecht