Lively with open-knit blackberry blueberry and cherry fruit laced with sweet tapenade and spice notes. A bouncy edge on the finish lets the gorgeous pure fruit play out without losing focus while a tobacco edge chimes in for added depth. Drink now through 2012. 10 cases imported. -JM

In tank waiting bottling when I tasted it in late June the Amirault 2008 Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes is loaded with tart fresh blackberry and cassis as well as suffused with salinity from its sea breeze scent to its long lip-smacking and pungently pepper-tinged finish. Polished in texture it offers a sense of brightness and pungency successfully playing off against near-creaminess unusual for this vintage as is indeed the wine's overall quality. I would expect this to remain lovely for at least the next couple of years but don't wait long to enjoy some! -David Schildknecht