Purple plum apricot and brown spices on the nose of Billaud-Simon's 2008 Chablis Vaillons - which originates largely in Sechet and Roncieres - migrates to a luscious and refreshing palate tinged by salt and chalk. This combines richness and brightness succulence and minerality to a deft degree finishing with suggestions of mirabelle and apricot distillate and pits black tea smokiness persistent primary juiciness and stimulating salinity. Expect it to offer excellent company at table over at least the next 5-7 years. -DS

The barest hint of post-bottling SO2 detracts only marginally from the otherwise pretty and expressive nose of pear and white flowers that are cut with a hint of tidal pool where the latter element is also reflected by the mouth coating and delicious yet entirely serious flavors that possess fine intensity and depth on the precise and lingering finish. Lovely stuff.