A Riesling-reminiscent amalgam of fresh lime white peach chalk and salt marks the nose and palate of Fevre's 2008 Chablis Bougros which in a role reversal from vintage norms is firmer and adamantly more mineral than its 2007 counterpart. Its tactile seemingly crystalline and pungently peppery sense of minerality and fruit skin chew folded into an almost sweetly ripe peachiness would be at home in Austria's Wachau. Smoky chalky and alkaline notes add to a remarkable diversity that informs a dynamically interactive energetic intractable finish. Expect this to gain some depth if you wait a few years and to perform well for 8-10 if not longer. -David Schildknecht