Chidaine's 2008 Montlouis Les Choisilles - a dry blend from various parcels that he essays most years but expects not to in 2009 - delivers aromas of fresh lemon grapefruit rind and white peach mingled with chalk dust and white truffle that put me (and him) much in mind of the corresponding 1996. Bright tight and faintly sizzling in phenolic intensity this combines sheer density with rapier penetration leaving behind almost indelible impressions of citrus zest white pepper radish chalk musk and white truffle. As with the corresponding Clos du Breuil this practically defeats the usual commercial intentions for this cuvee in seeming to want a couple of years in bottle. If drunk young decanting is advised. This outstanding value should certainly perform memorably for at least 5-7 (and if in that respect too if like the 1996 then longer). To resort to a musical metaphor those less tolerant of dissonance and acerbity in their polyphony should be skeptical of my score. --- David Schildknecht