A hailstorm in August reduced yields for the 2008 vintage at Col d’Orcia, but dry conditions followed, which concentrated flavors in the remaining fruit. That concentration is evident in this riserva from Poggio al Vento, a vineyard planted in 1974 on a south-facing slope at nearly 1,150 feet above sea level. Pleasantly abrasive tannins shroud a tight nugget of dark cherry and bitter almond flavor at the wine’s center. Those flavors gain volume gradually, adding soft notes of tarragon and gentian along with earthy mushroom tones. The wine is dense and tight, yet manages to maintain a translucent, lifted feeling. It aged for four years in large Slavonian casks and another two in bottle, and will continue to improve over the next decade.

Combining muscle and finesse, this opens with scents that recall perfumed berry, iris, wet earth, leather and an earthy note of underbrush. The firmly structured, balanced palate offers juicy wild cherry, licorice, clove, grilled herb and a hint of toast framed in firm, mature tannins. Drink 2018–2033.

This is settling into a nice rhythm, boasting fading cherry and strawberry fruit, with leather, tobacco and underbrush flavors. Still on the lean, firm side, but the tannins are slowly being absorbed. This could still use a few years of additional aging. Best from 2017 through 2030. 700 cases made. –BS