The Dagueneau 2008 Blanc Fume de Pouilly smells of lemon and caraway which along with nettle chalk and salt make for an invigorating bright whistle clean and handsomely lean expose of its grape and terroir. This sends shivers up my spine though it will no doubt be a bit too lean and bracing for some tasters. It should serve well for at least the next 2-3 years. -David Schildknecht