Ripe mango, pineapple and star fruit notes play off just a hint of fresh, earthy mushroom in this vibrant version, which shows zesty, enlivening acidity that provides lots of muscle, though there's a lightly mouthcoating texture that's like a layer of silk on the palate. Finely tuned. Drink now through 2030. – AN

The Zind-Humbrecht 2008 Pinot Gris Heimbourg Selection de Grains Nobles smells prominently of white truffle and sauteed champignons, along with maraschino, white raisin, quince preserves, and decadent lily perfume. Given 224 grams of residual sugar, even with yet-higher acidity than the corresponding Rotenberg, this comes off as enormously sweet. Here is an instance where Olivier Humbrecht thinks precisely a high acid and correspondingly low pH medium inhibited the yeasts in their labors, resulting in a protracted fermentation that petered-out at only 9.7% alcohol. One experiences that sense of confiture and honey being laced with enlivening fresh lemon, and even if one wants to characterize the finish as sweet-sour, it is undeniably intense, prolonged, and full of potentially productive, latently energetic tension. This needs a decade, I suspect, just to settle into a groove, and ought to be worth following for more than another decade beyond that, though I would monitor the extent to which the overtly fungal notes integrate or strengthen. - David Schildknecht